The 'eternal snow' that has crowned the mountains of Papua for centuries is nearly gone, marking a dramatic change in one of the last remaining tropical glaciers on Earth. Located on the world's second-largest island, just north of Australia, the Sudirman Range in Papua has long been a natural wonder and a key site for climate research. These peaks, known for their snow-capped summits, have provided scientists with crucial information about Earth's climate history. For many Indigenous Papuans, they are also deeply spiritual places, akin to religious centers like Mecca or the Vatican. But today, the glaciers that once covered these peaks are vanishing rapidly.
A century ago, the Sudirman Range had snow and ice on all four of its major peaks. Today, only small patches of snow remain on Puncak Jaya, also known as Carstensz Pyramid. The glacier cover around this peak has shrunk from nearly 1,900 hectares (4,700 acres) in the 19th century to about 16 hectares (40 acres) today. Scientists estimate that the last remnants of snow may disappear within a year or two. Marie Šabacká, a Czech glacier ecologist, recently traveled to the area to study the glaciers before they vanish completely. She emphasizes that these glaciers are unique, as they are isolated from other glacier systems by thousands of kilometers. Ice cores from Puncak Jaya offer a record of climate history, including data about atmospheric conditions and changes in the surrounding tropical Pacific waters. But this valuable record is disappearing before researchers can fully study it.
The retreat of Papua's glaciers is linked to global warming, driven by human activities such as the burning of fossil fuels. As temperatures rise, the freezing point moves higher up the mountains, leading to more rainfall instead of snow, even in areas that once regularly saw snowfall. El Niño events can speed up this process, while local factors like cloud cover and mountain topography influence how quickly glaciers recede. Since the Sudirman Range is just 450 kilometers (280 miles) south of the equator, glaciers there can only survive at very high altitudes and under specific climatic conditions. Even a slight temperature rise or a shift from snowfall to rainfall can determine whether a glacier survives. The disappearance of these glaciers is a clear sign of long-term global warming, and it removes not only a habitat for unique species but also a culturally significant landscape.
For Indigenous Papuans, the loss of the glaciers is more than an environmental change—it's a spiritual and cultural loss. At least five Indigenous groups have strong spiritual connections to Puncak Jaya. The Moni people call it Mbainggela, believing their ancestors watch over the mountain. The Amungme people refer to it as Nemangkawi, or the "White Arrow," symbolizing honesty, purity, and moral integrity. Adolfina Kum, an Amungme environmental activist, compares the loss of the glacier to the destruction of Mecca or the Vatican, emphasizing how deeply the mountain is tied to her people's identity. She warns that the loss of sacred landscapes like Nemangkawi weakens cultural foundations, much like removing the roots of a tree.
As the glaciers retreat, scientists and researchers are working to document what remains. Using drones and three-dimensional mapping, researchers like Klaus Thymann have created detailed models of the shrinking ice. He notes that the glaciated area has receded by 95% since the early 2000s, with almost no ice left. He says glaciers are powerful indicators of climate change, and the idea of something described as "eternal" disappearing can provoke strong reactions. Meanwhile, local communities face the challenge of balancing economic development with the preservation of their cultural heritage. While mining has brought jobs and infrastructure, it has also led to environmental damage and social conflict. As the sacred landscapes of Papua continue to change, the race to understand and preserve what remains is more urgent than ever.
Tropical Glaciers in Papua Face Disappearance Amid Climate Concerns
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