New penalties targeting the ultra-fast fashion industry have been introduced in a recent decree published on August 28. These penalties aim to curb the environmental and social impacts of fast fashion by imposing financial fines on clothing producers. The fines are based on the breadth of a company's product range and its repair index, which measures how easily a garment can be fixed. The penalties start at 50 cents for a pair of underwear or socks, increase to 6 euros for a shirt or sweater, 9 euros for jeans, and 12 euros for a coat. The maximum fine per item is capped at 50% of the tax-exempt selling price, and the penalties will gradually increase over time, reaching up to 19.50 euros per jacket by 2030. The new framework, according to the government, is primarily aimed at penalizing Chinese online platforms such as Shein, AliExpress, and Temu, which are known for producing and selling large volumes of inexpensive clothing quickly. French retailers, including major brands like Zara, Decathlon, Carrefour, and Kiabi, are exempt from these penalties. This has sparked criticism from advocacy groups, who argue that the measure does not go far enough. Éloïse Bazin, an advocacy officer at Oxfam and part of the Stop fast-fashion coalition, pointed out that the policy is too limited in scope, as it fails to address the long-standing practices of major fashion brands like Zara, H&M, and Kiabi. These brands have historically operated on a model that emphasizes large production volumes, fast-moving collections, and clothing designed for short-term use. According to a survey released in April 2026, nearly half of the non-reusable clothing collected by re-use organizations came from first-generation fast fashion retailers, compared to only 5% from ultra-fast fashion platforms. This highlights the significant role that traditional fast fashion brands continue to play in the issue of textile waste and the need for broader regulatory action. While the new penalties represent a step toward addressing the environmental and social challenges of the fashion industry, critics argue that they do not fully tackle the systemic issues caused by major fashion retailers. The policy’s focus on ultra-fast fashion platforms may not be enough to shift the industry toward more sustainable practices, especially when some of the largest contributors to fast fashion remain unaffected by the new regulations.