Oxfam France has reported that buying second-hand clothing through online resale platforms can have a much larger carbon footprint than purchasing from solidarity shops. A study by the RDC Environnement consulting firm, published on September 10, compared the environmental impact of a 5 kg clothing package across three models: social and solidarity economy (ESS) stores, commercial thrift stores, and online resale platforms. The study found that ESS stores had the lowest carbon footprint at 0.6 kg of CO2, while commercial thrift stores emitted 2.9 kg and online platforms emitted 3.1 kg. This difference is largely due to the complex logistics involved in online resale, such as shipping, transportation, and returns, which increase emissions significantly. Eloïse Bazin, the report’s coordinator at Oxfam France, explained that the logistics-heavy model of online platforms contributes to higher emissions. Vinted, one of the largest online resale platforms, acknowledged these concerns but emphasized that its platform is meant to complement, not replace, charitable organizations. Vinted allows such organizations to sell items through its Vinted Pro service and has set a goal to reduce its transportation-related emissions by 52% by 2030. Additionally, Vinted claims that buying second-hand on its platform avoids an average of 2.39 kg of CO2 per item compared to buying new. In France, Oxfam runs eight solidarity shops that handle the sorting, collection, and resale of clothing locally. However, some commercial thrift stores may outsource sorting to countries with lower labor costs, a practice that echoes the logic of fast fashion. Eloïse Bazin pointed out that this can undermine the goals of the social and solidarity economy, which aims to create community connections and reduce overconsumption. Refashion, an environmental organization, reported that about 260,000 tons of clothing and textiles were collected in France in 2022. However, only 188,000 tons were sorted out of a total of 827,000 tons placed on the market. Julie Lannoy, head of Oxfam France stores, noted that the rise of online platforms and profitable physical stores has led to the best clothing items being diverted away from solidarity reuse structures. Tarek Daher, from Emmaüs France, observed a decline in the quality of donated clothing, which has reduced the effectiveness of resale efforts. According to Refashion, Emmaüs’ reuse rate dropped from 64% in 2014 to 56% in 2024. Oxfam France warns that online platforms may shift the focus of second-hand clothing away from the goals of the social and solidarity economy. Eloïse Bazin noted that purchasing on these platforms is often seen as an addition to new clothing rather than a substitute. The NGO also raised concerns about the rise of "fast second-hand" corners in stores that offer purchase vouchers, which could further complicate the economic model of solidarity reuse. Emmaüs France, which collects about 150,000 tons of textiles annually, is seeing its economic model under threat due to changing consumer habits. Tarek Daher explained that the loss of high-quality textiles disrupts the support for housing, welcoming, and solidarity initiatives within the Emmaüs movement. Out of the 300 structures in the movement, 200 focus on reuse, and six out of ten second-hand clothes now pass through profitable resale channels. To address these challenges, Oxfam and Emmaüs are calling for a 30% reduction in the volume of textiles placed on the market by 2035 and for sustainable financing of solidarity reuse initiatives. They argue that such measures are essential to support the social and environmental goals of the solidarity economy.