The Écrins shelters, often described as the last bastions of the "real Alps," offer a distinct experience compared to those in the Mont-Blanc massif. Unlike the more modernized shelters in Mont-Blanc, the Écrins shelters remain simple and rustic, reflecting a different approach to high mountain alpinism. Guide Claude Albrand, known as the doyen of active high mountain guides, refers to these shelters as witnesses of the last "real Alps." This uniqueness stems from a combination of history, geography, and a particular relationship with high mountain environments.
The Écrins massif entered the history of alpinism later than Mont-Blanc. While Horace-Bénédict de Saussure had a shelter built on the path to Mount Blanc at the end of the 18th century, the Écrins remained on the sidelines. Although the Barre des Écrins (4,102 m) was the highest peak in France until 1860, the massif was not heavily frequented by the alpinism community. The first major ascents in the Écrins occurred in the second half of the 19th century, when many of the great alpine peaks had already been climbed elsewhere.
The valleys of the Écrins remained isolated for a long time. The train reached Briançon only in 1886, and the road to Ailefroide was completed in the middle of the 1930s. In the 19th century, reaching the heart of the massif required an expedition. Under these conditions, shelters were scarce. While the Chamonix Guide Company built the Grands Mulets shelter (3,051 m) as early as 1853, the Écrins offered only a few inns and makeshift shelters.
The French Alpine Club (CAF) and the Society of Tourists of Dauphiné played significant roles in organizing the development of the Écrins. In 1875, the Briançon Alpine Club transformed a natural cavity into the Puisieux shelter. In 1878, the Society of Tourists of Dauphiné attempted to build a cave shelter on the Bonne Pierre glacier, but the project was abandoned due to unsanitary conditions. The first permanent shelter, the Châtelleret, was built in 1883. The Lemercier cabin replaced an old rock shelter in 1891 and is now a small museum. The Promontoire shelter was inaugurated in 1901, and the Caron shelter was built in 1903 after a party died of cold and exhaustion due to a lack of shelter.
The Aigle shelter was established at the Meije in 1910. These shelters were constructed over a period of less than thirty years. Meanwhile, the Mont-Blanc massif was already undergoing changes. During the interwar period, shelters in Mont-Blanc were enlarged, welcomed permanent wardens, and gradually opened to winter practice. The Écrins followed this trend later, partly due to the lesser accessibility of the valleys and harsher winter conditions.
After World War II, the arrival of the helicopter revolutionized alpinism. Shelters were built with more facilities, including living quarters for wardens, kitchens, common rooms, dormitories, and sanitation facilities. The helicopter allowed for easier transport of materials and supplies, reducing the need for porters. This technological change influenced the development of shelters in the Écrins.
The creation of the national park also impacted the evolution of shelters. Today, the Écrins shelters are facing a turning point. Many shelters built in the 1950s and 1960s are reaching their limits and require maintenance and rehabilitation. The French Federation of Alpine Clubs (FFCAM) has several projects under study, including the renovation of the Écrins shelter, the Glacier Blanc, and the Sélé. However, no new shelter projects are currently planned due to budget constraints and the need to address climate change impacts. The changing environment may necessitate re-evaluating the locations of existing shelters.
Écrins Shelters: A Unique Legacy in the Alps
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