Slugging, a skincare technique using occlusive products, helps hydrate dry skin but may cause acne. It has ancient roots and is not related to snail mucin.
Origins of the skincare technique
Slugging is a skincare method involving the application of an occlusive product, such as petroleum jelly, to trap moisture and plump the skin. The term derives from the shiny appearance of the skin resembling that of a snail or the mucus it leaves behind.Historical use of skin care
The practice has historical roots, with Black women using petroleum jelly to hydrate their skin long before the creation of cosmetics suited to their skin tone. In antiquity, the Egyptians used oil to combat wrinkles, as recorded in the Ebers Papyrus dating back to 1550 BCE. In the 15th century, the Seneca tribe used oil seeping from the ground in Pennsylvania to soften animal skins and their own.Benefits and considerations
Slugging can be particularly beneficial for people with dry skin, especially those with eczema. However, astringent lotions or sulfate-based products can dry the skin during the night, especially in the absence of hydration. Seasonal variations can also affect skin dryness. Petroleum jelly is a popular option for slugging, and it is typically applied before bedtime to preserve hydration and maintain good skin health.Proper application method
The process involves starting with a personal skincare routine tailored to one's skin type and needs, generally including cleansing, washing, applying a toner, acne treatment, and a moisturizer. A dermatologist recommends lightly moisturizing the face before applying the occlusive layer. Products containing ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or vitamin C are considered beneficial for slugging. Ingredients to avoid include retinoids, bakuchiol, and alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids such as glycolic or salicylic acid, which can cause irritation.Choosing and applying the occlusive
The occlusive can be applied immediately or after waiting 10 to 15 minutes. Products containing petroleum jelly, such as Vaseline, are generally well tolerated and inexpensive. Alternatives include Aquaphor, derived from lanolin, or vegetable-based fats. If someone has allergies, they should check the ingredient list before use.Safety and skin reactions
Traditionally, the occlusive is applied at night. If someone prefers to remove it before bedtime, they should let the product rest for at least 30 to 60 minutes for optimal results. In the morning, if the face feels sticky, a gentle cleanser or warm water can be used. An aggressive approach may nullify the skin's efforts during sleep.Avoiding irritation
If the skin is irritated, it is recommended to skip the usual routine, especially if it contains retinol, tretinoin, or vitamin C. A gentle cleanser should be used before applying a moisturizer. Reading labels and testing the product on a small area can help avoid irritation. Some occlusives contain ingredients like lanolin, which may trigger allergic reactions in the presence of inflammation or skin damage. A patch test can determine if the occlusive is irritating to the skin.Limitations and risks
Not everyone can tolerate slugging, as it can trigger comedonal acne or occlusive acne by clogging pores and hair follicles. If this happens, slugging should be stopped until the skin heals. Dermatologists recommend slugging only for patients with extremely dry or cracked skin, as regular moisturizers are sufficient for daily hydration.Snail mucin and ethical concerns
Slugging is not related to snails, but the cosmetics industry is interested in snail mucin. Products containing snail mucin do not form a barrier but have benefits such as enzymes that promote cell renewal, hyaluronic acid, and antibacterial properties that can help with acne. However, the collection of snail mucin raises ethical concerns, as it is secreted when the animal is stressed. It is not recommended to use snails for slugging sessions or to collect snails for their mucin.
