Pearl jewelry in modern fashion

Pearl jewelry has made a significant return in the spring-summer 2027 runway shows, with designers reinterpreting the classic accessory in bold and innovative ways. The influence of Coco Chanel’s iconic pearl necklace is evident, but this season’s collections also feature a broader range of styles and materials.

Chanel’s reinterpretation of pearls

Matthieu Blazy, the artistic director of Chanel, has embraced the legacy of Coco Chanel by incorporating pearls into various forms, from dramatic décolletage pieces to delicate ear studs. The brand also continues to highlight its recent acquisition of Charvet, a historic French shirtmaker, and the Maison Desrues, a button specialist, which has led to intricate embroidery details using mother-of-pearl buttons.

Runway emphasis on visibility

This season’s runway shows have emphasized the visibility of jewelry, with large pearl drops and accumulated pearl necklaces becoming a trend. Michael Rider’s Celine show featured oversized pearl earrings, while Valentino’s collection showcased a mix of pearls, colored stones, and crystals, creating a striking visual impact.

Dior’s beachy and diaphanous pearls

At Dior, Jonathan Anderson introduced pebble-shaped pearls that evoke a beachy aesthetic. These pearls were used in asymmetrical chain earrings and paired with sheer, diaphanous fabrics, creating a light and airy look. The collection also featured a variety of textures and colors, reflecting a more relaxed and casual approach to luxury.

High jewelry and color experimentation

Recent high jewelry collections have incorporated rare freshwater baroque pearls with unique colorations, such as "peacock tail" reflections and deep black hues. Designers like Lucy Delius and Melanie Georgacopoulos have used these pearls in their collections, while Dolce & Gabbana experimented with light gray pearl necklaces paired with bold cocktail rings and bohemian-style bracelets.

Kitsch and eclectic influences

The spring-summer 2027 runway shows also embraced kitsch elements, with designers like Chopova Lowena, Dries Van Noten, and Acne Studios featuring playful and eclectic jewelry. Acne Studios’ dachshund-shaped earrings, for instance, pay homage to Coco Chanel’s own pet dachshunds, adding a whimsical touch to the season’s jewelry trends.