Hot vintages like 2022 and 2026 are producing lively wines with surprising freshness, challenging traditional views on acidity's role.
Low acidity but fresh wines
Recent hot vintages like 2022 and 2026 have produced wines with surprising freshness despite low acidity. These wines challenge the assumption that acidity alone determines freshness, as some low-acid wines still feel crisp and lively.Cooked aromas vs. fresh fruits
Jérôme Poisson, general manager of Château Giscours, explains that even with acidity, wines with cooked aromas may feel less fresh. In contrast, wines with slightly lower acidity but vibrant red fruit flavors can feel more refreshing to the palate.Viticultural advances help preserve freshness
Axel Marchal, a professor at ISVV, attributes the lack of cooked fruit in 2026 wines to improved viticulture techniques. These include better sun protection for grapes and adjusted harvest dates, which help maintain fruit quality and freshness.Protecting fruit quality ensures freshness
Antoine Médeville, an enologist at Oenoconseil, emphasizes the importance of protecting grape clusters and adjusting harvest times. These practices help preserve fruit quality and indirectly contribute to the perception of freshness in the final wine.Alcohol and the perception of freshness
Heat increases alcohol levels, which can create a warming sensation that might oppose freshness. However, Marie-Laurence Porte, an enologist at Oenosens, notes that some high-alcohol 2026 wines do not feel overly alcoholic, suggesting that balance plays a key role in how alcohol is perceived.Tannins contribute to balance and freshness
Tannins can add structure and balance to wines with low acidity. Jérôme Poisson suggests that well-integrated tannins can enhance the mouthfeel, though too much can lead to overly tannic wines. Winemakers in the Médoc are now focusing on achieving qualitative and round tannins rather than high levels.Mineral ions and salt-like sensations
Axel Marchal proposes that a purely gustatory freshness might be linked to certain mineral species or molecules that create a salt-like sensation. However, the role of these minerals in wine balance is not yet well understood.Must analysis may not predict final wine
In 2026, some musts with high pH and low acidity regained balance during fermentation as acids were released. This has led to calls for caution before artificially acidifying wines, as natural processes can restore balance.Microbiological approaches to enhance freshness
Researchers are exploring yeasts that can produce malic acid, reducing alcohol and increasing acidity. Marie-Laurence Porte is studying yeasts that generate lactic acid and tannins that may provide tension and a fresh sensation without boosting acidity.Freshness is a complex sensory experience
Freshness in wine is now seen as a complex perception involving acidity, aroma, alcohol, tannin texture, and possibly saline sensations. As global warming continues, winemakers are adapting by preserving acidity while exploring other factors that contribute to the overall sense of freshness.