Fashion Week highlights attitude over aesthetics

Before the official start of Paris Fashion Week, the focus on attitude and performance has already set the tone. Designers are emphasizing how models carry themselves and interact with their clothing, transforming runway moments into theatrical expressions of identity and self-expression.

Models as performers, not just wearers

At Gucci in Milan, models walked with deliberate steps, carrying monogrammed bags in a way that evokes the strong, dramatic characters of classic TV shows like Dynasty and Gossip Girl. Similarly, on French runways, Vaquera had models holding cigarette holders, while Telfar featured musician Crystal Murray as the sole model, walking with the confidence of 1990s supermodels behind large black glasses.

The concept of "cool" and its connection to fashion

According to the study What Makes Things Cool? by Caleb Warren and Margaret C. Campbell, "cool" is defined by a measured freedom that avoids breaking norms entirely but still distances itself from them. This idea is reflected in how models carry themselves on the runway, where clothing often suggests specific ways of standing, moving, and even subverting expectations.

A long history of performance in fashion

The art of embodying a look has a rich history. In the 1950s, Christian Dior encouraged models to act like dancers, twirling in their voluminous skirts. In the 1970s, Pat Cleveland brought a "larger than life" energy with dramatic movements, while the 1990s saw supermodels like Linda Evangelista and Cindy Crawford walk with the confidence of global icons, making their walk a signature.

Rediscovering play and theatricality in modern fashion

Today, designers are reimagining this performative aspect. At August Barron, the Walk of Fame collection drew inspiration from films like Boogie Nights and Sunset Boulevard, with models punctuating their walk with gestures and poses. Tom Ford's show featured slow, deliberate movements and lingering glances, while Vivienne Westwood showcased models walking with a variety of attitudes, from proud to bored.

Fashion as a dialogue with the audience

Some shows choose to engage directly with the audience, while others deliberately ignore them. At Hodakova, models wore painted false eyes and walked with their eyes almost closed, and at De Pino, models walked in pairs with their faces hidden under large wigs. These choices draw from theater, playing with the idea of the "fourth wall" — the invisible boundary between stage and audience.

Fashion as a non-verbal narrative

Steven Mitz, a screenwriter and former stylist, notes that in an era of hyper visibility, "attitude" involves the ability to obscure and make familiar codes less readable. Fashion becomes a non-verbal narrative, a way to express one's interiority. Even with the rise of AI-generated models, this expressiveness reminds us that fashion is not only about images but also about gestures, behaviors, and the choice to be seen or not.