Origins of the trench coat

The trench coat, which literally means "trench coat," is often thought to have originated during World War I and to have been named after the soldiers who wore it. However, its true origins date back to the early 1820s, when Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh and British inventor Thomas Hancock developed waterproof coats made of rubberized cotton.

Early wearers and social status

Those who actually wore trench coats during World War I were mainly officers who purchased them themselves to complete their uniforms. It was therefore a mark of distinction and social class, even in the military. The original design, known as the "mack," was intended for gentlemen engaged in outdoor activities and military service.

Technological improvements and new designs

Thanks to technological advances, the rubber coating became more breathable, less damp, and more waterproof. In 1853, a tailor named John Emary designed an improved raincoat under the name Aquascutum. In 1856, Thomas Burberry created his eponymous company, later inventing "gabardine," a fabric that became popular among explorers and adventurers.

Military adaptation and popularity

If Aquascutum and Burberry claim the "invention" of the World War I trench coat, the two companies actually popularized a type of coat that already existed by adapting it to the needs of the military. The image of the elegant officer wearing a trench coat contributed to the style's flair, though the coats were expensive and only accessible to the wealthiest.

Design features of the World War I trench coat

The classic khaki trench coat from World War I was a double-breasted jacket, fitted at the waist, and extending below the knee in a flared cut. It featured a belt with D-rings, a cape at the back for water drainage, and storm flaps on the shoulders for ventilation.

Post-war evolution and Hollywood influence

Although worn again by officers during World War II, the trench coat largely shed its military utility in the 1940s. Hollywood helped transform it into a timeless fashion piece by associating it with characters like investigative journalists, gangsters, and spies. Stars like Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca and Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's helped cement its iconic status.

Modern reinterpretations and enduring appeal

Today, the trench coat has been reinterpreted by designers such as Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo, and Jean-Paul Gaultier. It remains a signature piece of Burberry, available in various styles, colors, and lengths. While it has lost its military functional connotation, it has retained its former chic appeal.