Film's relevance resurfaces
A recent article debates whether the 1976 film L’Aile ou la Cuisse by Claude Zidi is a crude caricature or a sharp insight into French gastronomy. The film, now available on Netflix, is seen as prescient in its depiction of the evolving food industry.Louis de Funès' character
The article highlights the steel-blue gaze of Louis de Funès, who plays Charles Duchemin, a character capable of identifying a grand cru without tasting it. This role follows his earlier portrayals of restaurant owners in other films, showcasing his versatility in gastronomic roles.Tricatel's role in the film
Facing de Funès is Tricatel, a character representing industrial junk food, portrayed by Julien Guiomar. His character is depicted as detestable, with a laugh as thick as the plastic lettuce leaves produced by his factory.Coluche's storyline
The film's plot revolves around Coluche as Gerard Duchemin, a rebellious son escaping his father's career. Pierre Richard initially considered for the role of the heir, rejected it, believing it lacked dramatic depth.Gastronomy of the 1970s
Exactly fifty years after its release, the film reflects the gastronomy of the 1970s. It captures the rise of "New Cuisine," formalized in 1973 by Gault and Millau, and hints at the future success of Japanese cuisine through a teppanyaki scene.Portrayal of women
The film's depiction of women is limited to young, pretty, and docile figures like the secretary Marguerite. When Duchemin disguises himself as an old lady, he becomes invisible, highlighting the marginalization of women in the gastronomic sphere.Chefs in the film
Chefs are portrayed as greasy, dishonest, or threatening. Their media prominence is just beginning, as the industrialization of food starts to elevate them as spokespeople, exemplified by Michel Guérard's association with Findus in 1976.End of gastronomic criticism
The film's climax sees Duchemin's lost watch from the Tricatel factory reappear on his plate, symbolizing the end of the era of gastronomic criticism. This is contrasted with the 2024 invitation of chef Guy Savoy to the Academy of Fine Arts.Modern influence
The televised debate between industrialist and tasting expert in the film is now replaced by shows like Top Chef, interspersed with food industry advertisements. Jacques Borel, a pioneer of fast food caricatured as Tricatel, will celebrate his 100th birthday in spring. The film L’Aile ou la Cuisse is available on Netflix starting October 30, alongside the book Tricatel or Duchemin by Matthieu Aussudre.
