Dessert revival near All Saints' Day

A traditional dessert linked to All Saints' Day is experiencing a resurgence as November 1 approaches. The gâteau de la Toussaint, once overlooked, is being offered by a family-run patisserie in Saumur, France, for about 15 days before the holiday.

History of the cake

The dessert's origins trace back to a recipe from the 17th to 18th centuries. According to Le Parisien, a Parisian priest in 2002 helped revive the cake to give All Saints' Day more prominence, working with a pastry chef to create a version with pistachio, raspberries, and lemon.

Revival in Saumur

The cake found new life in Saumur through Father Emmanuel d'Andigné, a local priest who rediscovered the recipe and shared it with the patisserie La Duchesse Anne and the bakery Joseph. The business had not previously been familiar with the dessert before receiving the recipe.

Dessert's ingredients and style

The current version of the cake features a pistachio biscuit made by hand, with egg whites carefully folded in to keep it light. Instead of the original chiboust cream, a lighter mousse is used, and raspberries add a tart flavor. The golden topping symbolizes gilded churches, according to Cécile Godineau of the patisserie.

Tradition and symbolism

Each cake comes with a small card from the parish, recounting the life of a saint and explaining the meaning of All Saints' Day. Customers can choose their card or have one selected for them. The cake is available for a short period, making it a sought-after treat, with some customers traveling to buy it each year.