Fake fur, once mainly linked to affordable winter clothing and mass-market fashion, is now playing a significant role in high-end fashion. According to Christopher Sarfati, general director of Ecopel, a leading fake fur manufacturer, about 75% of luxury fashion houses now use his company's materials. Notably, Fendi, a brand with deep ties to real fur, has joined this shift, despite its parent company, LVMH, historically using real fur. Ecopel's materials are designed to closely mimic the look and feel of real animal furs, such as mink or fox. The process involves using "staple fibers," which are short, disordered strands resembling tiny cotton candy balls. These fibers are woven together into long ribbons and then processed using circular knitting machines to create a soft, hairy texture. A resin is applied to stabilize the material, and finishing machines add details like shaved hairs or curls. Colors and patterns can be programmed in advance, giving designers the freedom to use vibrant, unnatural hues like rose, yellow, red, or blue. Christopher Sarfati's journey to becoming a leader in the fake fur industry is far from conventional. Coming from a family of clothing manufacturers, he left law school to join his parents' business. He later developed collections sold in Asia and became the commercial director of Nina Ricci at just 22 years old. After the company was sold in 1998, he moved to the U.S. and worked on projects like Von Dutch Europe with designer Christian Audigier. A key turning point came when Sarfati visited a plush manufacturer in Asia and saw the production of characters like Mickey Mouse and Tigrou. Inspired, he launched Ecopel, but their initial collection was a failure. A meeting with a hair extension manufacturer introduced them to Kanekalon, a Japanese fiber that created a softer, more realistic product. This breakthrough led to their first major order from Inditex, the parent company of Zara. Sarfati then aimed to re-enter the luxury market, meeting with Stella McCartney, a pioneer in eco-friendly fashion. Her request for more vibrant colors sparked increased interest in Ecopel's materials. Initially, brands like Fendi and Loro Piana were hesitant, but the industry's shift toward fur-free policies has changed that. Ecopel is now focused on sustainability. In 2019, the company launched KOBA, a partially bio-sourced fake fur developed with Stella McCartney, using vegetable resources and recycled polyester. They are currently working on a new generation of completely bio-sourced fur using PLA, a biopolymer made from plant-based materials like starch or corn. The goal is to maintain the softness, volume, and premium appearance of real fur while reducing reliance on fossil fuels. The fashion industry's move away from real animal fur has led to "fur-free" policies among about forty major brands, including Armani, Prada, and Dolce & Gabbana. Milano Fashion Week has also introduced guidelines encouraging brands to avoid using fur in their runway shows. Ecopel's influence extends beyond fashion, as the company is working on an alternative to bear fur used in the ceremonial hats of the British royal guards. Traditionally, these hats required the killing of nearly 300 bears annually. The new material must meet strict requirements for weight, strength, and durability, performing well in snow and rain while maintaining its appearance and performance.