It is 9:30 AM in Dijon, and a glass of wine is being offered in the vaulted cellars of the restaurant La Fine Heure, on rue Berbisey. Jonathan Mollion presents a glass of Petit Chablis 2025, produced by La Cuve en Ville, an urban micro-winery located in the historic center of Dijon. The project was initiated by Anaïs Bouchard, originally from Chablis, who comes from a family of winemakers and wanted to create an accessible winemaking space for the public while working with local producers. She met Jonathan Mollion, owner of La Fine Heure, who had large cellars but had not yet found a way to use them. A mutual friend connected them, and the project took shape in 2023. Anaïs Bouchard manages and produces the wine.
The principle of La Cuve en Ville recalls that of micro-breweries that have multiplied in cities, but with a difference: the raw material comes from Burgundian vineyards that cultivate organically. The winery buys grapes from partner winemakers, presses them, and collects the must, which is then transported to Dijon and poured into barrels. The process of fermentation, aging, and other transformations that turn grape juice into wine usually remains invisible to the general public but is now taking place in the basement of a restaurant.
La Cuve en Ville produces approximately 3,000 bottles per year, mainly short circuit. The production remains deliberately artisanal, around 3,000 to 3,500 bottles per year, depending on the vintage. The range includes Petit Chablis, Chablis, Bourgogne Aligoté, or Chardonnay. The wines are mainly sold in Dijon, directly at the restaurant La Fine Heure, but also at some partner restaurants and professionals. A small part of the production goes to Paris.
The production method emphasizes sobriety. "As few interventions as possible," summarizes Jonathan Mollion. Most of the cuvées come from organic agriculture, and the work in the cellar favors winemaking without chemical inputs. Even the bottling is done by hand. The wine passes through small stainless steel tanks and then, thanks to a multi-nozzle filler, into bottles. Once filled, they are corked and labeled on site. A traditional, human-scale work.
A small particularity is that the winery currently produces only white wines. "We don't make red, because then you would need a press for maceration and that often attracts small flies. It is not very compatible with the proximity of the restaurant," explains Jonathan Mollion. Grape skins attract fruit flies, which are difficult to reconcile with the restaurant activity located just above.
Another originality of La Cuve en Ville lies in the container. Here, the wine bottle is not necessarily for single use. The collected bottles can be cleaned to be used again. "I emphasize the word reuse, it is not recycling," says Jonathan Mollion. The idea is to avoid breaking the glass, melting it at high temperatures, and making a new bottle. Instead, the collected containers are sent to a partner in Nuits-Saint-Georges to be cleaned with steam and put back into circulation. To facilitate the operation, the labels use water-soluble glue. There is also no metal or plastic capsule around the cork. All these small choices are aimed at reducing waste and the environmental footprint of wine, even though the overall carbon footprint of this organization has not been quantified.
The project is not limited to producing a few thousand bottles. It also aims to reestablish the link between the consumer and the wine trades. In the cellars of La Fine Heure, visits and tastings allow understanding grape varieties, terroirs, and the famous parcels called "climats" of Burgundy. Jonathan Mollion regularly hosts these meetings, open to both residents and tourists. The opportunity to discover that behind a bottle there are technical choices, craftsmanship, and sometimes years of work. And to remind that the Burgundian wine region is not only its vineyard landscapes: its history is also written in urban cellars. A modest initiative in terms of size, but which opens an interesting path: what if producing locally did not only mean cultivating near home, but also reestablishing transformation activities at the heart of cities?
Urban Winery La Cuve en Ville Brings Local Production to Dijon
AI-rewritten from original reportingHow it works
micro-winerysustainabilityburgundyorganic-wineurban-winemakingreuse
Original sources:
- 🇫🇷Wedemain



