Traditional Breton sausage faces EU restrictions

The andouille de Guémené, a traditional Breton delicacy made from pork intestines and smoked with beech wood, is facing potential restrictions due to new European Union regulations concerning harmful substances in smoked foods.

Unique preparation method defines the dish

The product, produced in Guémené-sur-Scorff in the Morbihan department, has been a staple of Breton gastronomy for centuries, distinguished by its unique preparation method and flavor. The process involves smoking the sausage with beech wood, giving it its characteristic black color and taste, followed by a drying period of two to three weeks.

Health concerns over PAHs in smoked foods

The concern stems from polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), substances formed during the smoking process and considered potentially carcinogenic. Until 2016, inspections of the andouille de Guémené did not include the skin, but current regulations require testing that includes the skin, leading to higher PAH levels.

Artisans try to comply with new rules

Artisans have attempted to mitigate this by covering the sausage with a sock during the smoking process, but the levels remain high enough to cause temporary halts in sales, as reported by the Maison de l'andouille.

Politicians push for EU exemption

Local politicians across the political spectrum are advocating for a European exemption to preserve the traditional production method. They argue that higher PAH levels correlate with a more intense flavor, which is a defining characteristic of the andouille de Guémené.

Petition highlights cultural significance

A petition, signed by approximately 20,000 people, has been launched to support these efforts, emphasizing the cultural and culinary significance of the dish. Some propose reverting to pre-2016 testing methods, which excluded the skin from analysis, with clear labeling indicating that the skin should not be consumed.