An exhibition at Palais Galliera explores 19th-century feminine wardrobes and their links to queer and feminist identities, highlighting fashion as resistance against patriarchal norms.
Exhibition focuses on 19th-century feminine fashion
At 11 a.m., the Palais Galliera welcomed journalists, predominantly women, for an event centered around the exhibition Un Vestiaire à soi. Féminités dissidentes, which explores 19th-century feminine wardrobes and their connections to queer and feminist identities. The exhibition, curated by Marine Kisiel, highlights the historical narratives of women who redefined fashion as a tool of representation and resistance against patriarchal norms.Exhibition challenges fixed notions of femininity
The exhibition challenges the notion that the feminine wardrobe is a natural or fixed entity, instead presenting it as a social construction rooted in patriarchal norms. It highlights how marginalized individuals have created alternative narratives that have influenced fashion over time.Queer and lesbian fashion in historical context
The exhibition also examines the complexities of queer and lesbian fashion, noting that the collective imagination often doubts or ignores lesbian femininity due to the rejection of the male gaze. This theme is linked to the political demands of lesbian activists from the 1970s and 1980s, who rejected fashion and feminine appearance to counter social constraints.Historical fashion items reveal resistance
The exhibition showcases various 19th-century fashion items, including the Spencer jacket, corsets that improved freedom of movement, and Amazon skirts that concealed pants to avoid the morality police. These items illustrate how fashion was used to challenge social constraints.Research highlights gaps in historical records
Marine Kisiel noted that the exhibition's narrative is built upon extensive research and engagement with archives, which often contain silences and gaps. One such example is a top hat with an integrated monocle belonging to Princess Murat, which raises questions about her identity and role. The exhibition acknowledges these uncertainties without forcing conclusions.New book explores lesbian fashion history
Eleonor Medhurst, an independent British researcher, published Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion in 2024, the first book to attempt to write the history of lesbian fashion. She uses the term "lesbian adjacent" to describe the fluidity of clothing as a means of connection rather than rigid labels.Rosa Bonheur's wardrobe challenges norms
The exhibition features a room dedicated to the wardrobe of Rosa Bonheur, a painter who was allowed to wear pants and wore blouses to challenge societal norms. The room includes custom-made costumes, personal objects, and paintings of Bonheur with her companions.Exhibition highlights Blackness and gender nonconformity
The exhibition concludes with a modest but determined representation of clothing-related Blackness, highlighting the expression of social, sexual, and gender nonconformity in marginalized communities. It includes Black and white photographs of women from the 19th century, capturing the lives of nameless women whose histories are only imagined. These images serve to inspire reflection on the possibilities of femininity and the strength of those who came before.
