The Provence region has been shaped by the influence of the pieds-noirs, individuals of French origin who lived in North Africa before returning to France. Their return in the mid-20th century brought new ideas and techniques that transformed the local wine industry. Emmanuelle Baude, once a notary, left her profession to take over the Tour Campanets vineyard in the Coteaux d'Aix area. The estate, known for its unique soil and ancient history, has attracted people for centuries, including the Romans, who left behind a 4th-century sarcophagus found on the property. In 1962, a pied-noir from Algeria settled there, introducing the cabernet sauvignon grape, which had been largely ignored in the region.
Emmanuelle took over the 35-hectare estate in 2012. Her journey into winemaking was unconventional. After helping two companies set up agricultural projects, she decided to return to the land, driven by a love of natural beauty and a desire to preserve the region's heritage. She pursued additional training in oenology, viticulture, and administrative management in Suze-la-Rousse. While she found the administrative side of running a vineyard more challenging than expected, she learned from her experiences, including an internship at the Jouques abbey with the Benedictines, where she worked alongside a team of Moroccans on grafting and pruning.
When choosing Tour Campanets, Emmanuelle was drawn to its unique qualities. Unlike other estates that produced bottled wines, Tour Campanets had only made bulk wines, giving her the opportunity to start from scratch. Previous owners had planted a variety of grape types, offering her a wide range of options for blending. She added even more diversity by planting rare varieties like counoise. The estate's soil is calcareous and white, contributing to the wines' mineral character, and its northern exposure is rare in the region. The vineyard is surrounded by forests, which help maintain a cooler climate, and reaching the estate requires a long, winding path through the woods.
Emmanuelle's approach to winemaking is influenced by her Lorraine roots. Her grandfather, during World War II, moved to the South to find work and wrote to her grandmother to join him. Her grandmother crossed the demarcation line with her two young daughters, carrying only a handbag and hiding money and jewelry in her boots. This background may explain Emmanuelle's preference for cooler vineyards. Her wines are elegant and refreshing, avoiding heavy styles in favor of a relaxed, easy-drinking experience. Her sauvignon blanc, for example, has a more mineral character than the bold New Zealand style, echoing the wines of Sancerre.
To share her wines with others, Emmanuelle has embraced oenotourism, opening a bar and shop at the estate. Her background as a notary helped her develop a clear and accessible way to explain wine, starting with the simple experience of tasting. She asks people what they feel in their mouths, creating a shared experience that puts everyone on equal footing from the beginning.
Emmanuelle Baude's Transformation of Tour Campanets Estate in Provence
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