Tokyo's underground food scene is a treasure trove of affordable, high-quality dining options, ranging from traditional ramen to inventive fruit sandwiches. In the Omoide Yokocho, or "Memory Lane," located in the Shinjuku district, visitors can savor a 400 yen (approximately £2) ramen bowl filled with green vegetables and a halved hard-boiled egg. This narrow alley, also known as "Piss Alley" due to its historical name, is lined with tiny bars, small eateries, and makeshift street food stalls that offer an authentic taste of local flavors. As the tour continues, visitors can sample yakitori—grilled skewers of meat—priced at 1000 yen (£5). The next morning, a hot can of coffee from a vending machine near a hotel costs just 120 yen (about 50p), setting the tone for a day exploring the culinary delights of YaNeSen, three interconnected historic neighborhoods in northwest Tokyo. During a guided tour by Culinary Backstreets, participants enjoy a variety of dishes, including cream puffs from a French bakery, expertly roasted coffee in a former bathhouse, nostalgic soya bean sweets from a century-old shop, and traditional sake from the bustling Yanaka Ginza market, known for its lively street food scene. In the evening, an izakaya—a casual Japanese bar offering drinks and small, shareable plates—provides a relaxed dining experience. Here, guests can enjoy crispy kara age (fried chicken), edamame beans, and a generous glass of sake for around 1200 yen (£5.50). The tour also ventures to Kappabashi Dogugai Street in Taito City, often referred to as "Kitchen Town," which is home to over 170 specialized shops selling kitchenware, knives, and even fake food samples used in restaurants for display. The journey concludes with a visit to Ryogoku, a historic neighborhood east of the Sumida River, where the author tries sumo wrestler stew, or chunkonabe, at Chanko Kawasaki for 5000 yen (£23). This hearty meal features chicken, tofu, an omelette, and a colorful mix of vegetables. To end the food adventure, the author enjoys a luxurious fruit sandwich—furutsu sando—at Takano Fruit Parlour, a high-end café located five floors above Shinjuku, offering a sweet and refreshing finale to the culinary journey.