The French luxury brand Hermès unveiled a new women's collection on Saturday in the courtyard of the Republican Guard in Paris. The collection centers around the zipper, using it as both a functional element and a design feature. The ultrafine rein or ultra-thin strap becomes an accessory, or even a garment itself. Nadège Vanhée, who has been in charge of women's fashion at Hermès since 2014, described the collection in her intention note: "The breeze slips between the skin and the material. A hem lifts, a sleeve swells, a slit appears while each garment moves gently: like in weightlessness." The zipper is omnipresent, adjusting the length of skirts, appearing on leather jackets, or running along blue flared pants. This creates a look that is both sensual and technical.
Several pieces from the collection include a brown belted jacket paired with a silk faille skirt that can be adjusted in length, or a white silk mesh ruffled dress. These are accompanied by orange sunset silhouettes, adding a vibrant contrast. Founded in 1837 as a harness-maker, Hermès is still family-controlled and continues to enter the stables of the last cavalry of the Republic each season. For the duration of the event, gendarmes and military personnel mingled with the brand's wealthiest and most loyal customers, who had traveled from all over the world.
Hermès, known for its iconic Kelly bag, is currently navigating a challenging period despite performing better than many other luxury brands. On July 29, the company's shares fell up to 11% following the release of semi-annual results, which, while solid, were not enough to prevent a decline. Since then, several banks have reduced their price targets, citing continued weak demand in China, once a major luxury market. The stock has lost nearly 39% of its value since January 1. The house will release its third-quarter revenue results on October 22, and the brand must maintain its aura until then.
Nadège Vanhée's first haute couture collection will be presented in January during Paris couture week. At the same time, British designer Grace Wales Bonner will make her runway debut as artistic director of men's fashion. She succeeds Véronique Nichanian, who left the house in January after 37 years.
Hermès Presents Zipper-Centric Women's Collection Amid Market Turbulence
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