Winemakers try new crops in southern France

In the Aude and Pyrénées-Orientales regions of France, winemakers are exploring new crops to adapt to climate change, particularly the growing dryness of the soil. Among the crops being tested is pistachio, which can survive in hot and dry conditions. In the village of Estagel, a vineyard has been converted into a test site for pistachio trees, aiming to sustain agricultural production amid a changing climate.

New association studies crop resilience

The Avenir productions agricoles résilientes méditerranéennes (Aparm) association, formed in 2023, is researching how different crops, including black chickpeas, caper, teff, and pistachio trees, can withstand environmental stress. Agricultural engineer Achille Arène explains that the goal is to see if pistachio trees can grow alongside vines and possibly help protect the grapevines by providing shade.

Climate change forces vineyard changes

Myriam Levalois-Bazer, leading pistachio development for Aparm, says the project is a response to the challenges of Mediterranean agriculture. Climate change is reducing water availability and raising temperatures, leading some winemakers to remove vineyards. The state compensates for this by paying about 4,000 euros per hectare, but the landscape of vineyards is changing, with more dead wood appearing.

Water scarcity threatens future

Scientific models predict that by 2100, water resources in the region could drop by 80% compared to the 1960s. Wolfgang Ludwig, a hydrologist at the University of Perpignan, warns that the situation is serious and adaptation is essential. Areas like the Roussillon may become increasingly difficult to live in without significant changes.

Pistachios face their own challenges

While pistachio trees are drought-resistant, they are vulnerable to damage, such as wounds on the trunk, which can be fatal. Levalois-Bazer notes that the association has studied market potential and found that local confectionery and ice cream shops could be key buyers. However, production costs are too high to compete with major exporters like California and Iran.

Funding supports pistachio growth

Pistachio trees, native to Central Asia, take seven years to bear fruit. Aparm’s support in Occitanie has helped establish a pistachio industry in the Corbières-Fenouillèdes-Roussillon area. The region received 400,000 euros in funding through the government's "Plan agriculture Méditerranée" initiative, aimed at promoting sustainable farming.

Farmers diversify to survive

Elizabeth and Jon Bowen have removed four hectares of vineyard and planted five types of pistachio trees on different soils. They see diversification as a way to build resilience, especially with the ongoing wine crisis. Laurent Maynadier, a winemaker from Aude, has also shifted to growing aloe vera, adapting to both climate and consumer trends.

Local leaders support new crops

Jacques Bayona, mayor of Saint-Paul-de-Fenouillet, has planted pistachio trees on his land, noting that their production cost is lower than that of vines. He believes pistachios can provide extra income and reduce fire risks on unused land, though they are not meant to replace all vineyards.

Challenges remain for new farming methods

Despite the progress, farmers face hurdles such as training, funding, and bureaucratic obstacles. However, the shift toward alternative crops is gaining momentum as an option to large-scale water projects, which some say are not sustainable. As climate change continues, the adaptation efforts of these winemakers are becoming more crucial.