For the third edition of its deliverable vintages presentation, the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés de Sauternes et Barsac selected the Château de Myrat. The 2023 vintage, now bottled, is described as rich, fresh, and expressive of botrytis, a type of noble rot that affects grapes and contributes to the unique flavor of Sauternes wines. The vintage initially caused concern due to a hot and humid June, which favored mildew, but cooler temperatures in July and early August preserved acidity. The heat in late August and September accelerated maturation and concentrated the berries. September rains created favorable conditions for botrytis, leading to a quick harvest beginning in early October.
The profile of the 2023 vintage is largely consensus: rich wines with higher acidity than 2022, expressive with notes of yellow and exotic fruits, citrus, and botrytis spices. Guillaume Lefebvre, president of the classified growths from 1855 Sauternes and Barsac, emphasizes that the 2023 vintage has a keeping potential but is already "ready to drink," a vintage "quite charming." The Conseil des Grands Crus Classés aims to highlight the wine's drinkability and freshness, targeting younger consumers who may approach sweet wines with fewer preconceptions.
During a wedding at Château de Myrat, a young Sauternes 2024 served cold during a cocktail and a 1998 with cheese encountered unexpected success, illustrating the potential for unconventional pairings. The Conseil plans to launch an operation in Paris in December, associating a classified Sauternes growth with a restaurant, from a bistro to a starred table, to promote the wine with less conventional pairings like cheese. A list of participating establishments will be disseminated, aiming for national reach.
The presentation at Myrat revealed that dry whites now occupy a visible place in the ranges, raising questions about the balance between economic diversification and the defense of historical sweet wines. Guillaume Lefebvre acknowledges that the Conseil can support properties in presenting dry wines but emphasizes that the 1855 classification applies to sweet wines and remains a priority. While dry wines offer wider volumes and broader markets, some worry about the dilution of the Sauternes image. The majority of châteaux maintain a focus on quality and promotion of Sauternes, recognizing that diversification could marginalize the wine that made the classification and the worldwide reputation of Sauternes and Barsac.
The Conseil's stance is clear: "the dry can accompany the Sauternais, but Sauternes must remain its beating heart." The 2023 vintage provides a strong argument, offering richness, freshness, and drinkability, allowing it to be enjoyed young without needing a special occasion, while still retaining aging potential. This will be confirmed in Paris, beginning in December, in the partner restaurants.
Sauternes Wine Council Highlights 2023 Vintage and Marketing Strategy
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