The rappel and the Abalakov are two techniques that transformed how climbers descend in alpinism. After the first ascents of famous peaks like Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, climbers began to focus on ensuring safe and efficient ways to return from the summit. One of the earliest and most dramatic incidents occurred on July 14, 1865, when Douglas Hadow slipped on the Matterhorn shortly after completing the first ascent. The team of seven climbers, including Pierre Taugwalder and Michel Croz, relied on a single hemp rope. When Hadow fell, he pulled others down, but the rope broke near Taugwalder, saving the last three climbers from a fatal fall. It wasn’t until 1945 that nylon replaced hemp ropes, but in the years in between, climbers worked on improving both safety and efficiency during descents. In 1876, Jean Charlet-Straton made a significant contribution to alpinism by inventing the rappel during an attempt on the Petit Dru. Despite multiple failed attempts, he finally reached the summit in 1879 with two guides. During the descent, he used a double rope system, allowing his companions to catch him as he slid down. His method, described in detail in the Annuaire du Club alpin français, was a breakthrough in controlled descent. Charlet-Straton’s solo ascent and descent, which took five hours, demonstrated the potential of the rappel technique, even though many in Chamonix initially doubted his success. A few decades later, in 1910, the German climber Hans Dülfer introduced the S rappel, a method that involved winding the rope around the climber to create friction and control the descent. However, this technique was physically demanding and caused discomfort, leading some climbers to avoid it. One such climber was Paul Preuss, an Austrian who believed that climbing should be done without artificial aids like ropes or pitons. He advocated for free climbing, where climbers could ascend and descend the same route without relying on equipment. Preuss’s philosophy, "If you cannot descend, you should not climb," drew criticism from some of his peers, including Tita Piaz, who admired his skill but disagreed with his stance. Preuss climbed and descended some of the most challenging walls in the Dolomites, including the east face of the Campanile Basso di Brenta, in a single day without using any ropes or pitons. Tragically, Preuss was later found dead after a fall on the Mandlkogel in 1913. The Abalakov, a technique developed in the 1940s by Russian climber Vitali Abalakov, became a crucial innovation in glacial descents. The method involves drilling two small holes in a glacier with an ice pick and passing the rope through them to create a secure anchor. This technique, named after Abalakov, is simple, effective, and durable. Despite its reliability, a tragic incident in 2024 highlighted the risks associated with it when Slovak climber Ondro Huserka died after an Abalakov anchor failed during his descent from Langtang Lirung in Nepal. Abalakov’s legacy lives on, not only in the technique he invented but also in the broader history of alpinism, where innovation and safety continue to be central concerns.