Dust swirls beneath the hooves of riders arriving at the grounds of the vaquejada, a traditional Brazilian rodeo, where the atmosphere is solemn, like a religious procession. People have traveled from nearby cities to Serrita, in the sertão region of central Pernambuco, to take part in the "cowboy mass." This unique ceremony blends religious devotion with rural traditions and honors Raimundo Jacó, a ranch worker who was murdered in 1954 while searching for a lost animal. His killers were never brought to justice. As the song A Morte do Vaqueiro ("The Death of the Cowboy"), a famous tune by Luiz Gonzaga, plays over loudspeakers, Alberto Júnior, a 29-year-old rider, nods along with his eyes closed, murmuring political thoughts in a low voice. Though he acknowledges the legacy of Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, a former president from Pernambuco and leader of the Workers' Party (PT), Alberto expresses disappointment with the country's direction. For the upcoming October elections, he has chosen to support Renan Santos, a candidate from the far-right Missão party, whom he discovered through online videos. This decision goes against the preferences of many in his community, who remain loyal to Lula. It also poses a challenge for the current president, who is trying to maintain political influence. Founded in 1921, Folha de São Paulo is now one of the three largest Brazilian newspapers by circulation, alongside O Globo from Rio de Janeiro and O Estado de São Paulo, its long-standing rival from São Paulo. The newspaper is part of a major media group that also owns the online portal UOL and the polling institute Datafolha. Generally leaning toward the center-right and conservative views, Folha has historically opposed both the left-wing policies of Lula and the far-right agenda of Jair Bolsonaro. However, its editorial stance has evolved significantly over its century-long history. Like most national newspapers, Folha supported the 1964 military coup that established a dictatorship lasting until 1985. In the 1980s, the newspaper underwent a major transformation, driven by the arrival of younger journalists in leadership roles. In 1989, Folha became the first Brazilian newspaper to introduce a mediator, a role that continues today with weekly publications. In addition to standard sections and supplements, Folha offers a range of digital content, including podcasts, videos, and special sections for children (Folhinha, meaning "the small leaf") and teenagers (Folhateen).