At the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens unveiled his spring-summer 2027 collection, titled Stone, in a presentation that opened in full light. The collection is described as "elegant stoicism," blending refined aesthetics with a restrained, almost meditative energy. One standout piece is a long ivory robe that creates an ethereal, timeless figure, as if the wearer had stepped out of the statues that line the museum's entrance. The model's eyes are obscured by reflective mask-glasses, adding to the mysterious and otherworldly effect.
The textures in the collection evolve into something more organic, with the body often disappearing under an ivory chrysalis of folds and long yellow, fluffy tubes that encircle the body like a hive—lacy, delicate, and in motion. The collars stretch over the shoulders, creating an effect that resembles wings, blending the look of a creature with something more angelic. A highlight is an aerial ivory dress whose train seems to float and defy gravity, achieving a monumental lightness that captures the collection's essence.
Owens also reimagined an industrial transport strap into a rigid double-duchesse, a type of structured, decorative fabric. This piece symbolizes the collection's theme of "sumptuous and industrially austere" design, combining luxury with a utilitarian edge. The designer's work is infused with a mystical and superstitious vocabulary, including pentagrams, sigils, and other symbols drawn from chaos magic. These elements are subtly integrated into the silhouettes, reflecting a fascination with the occult.
Owens refers to these symbolic elements as talismans, suggesting an openness to the "Other"—a concept that challenges conventional understanding. In his notes, he writes, "We see how superstitiously diabolizing the other can be human," inviting viewers to "not cast the stone," a phrase that becomes a metaphor for material, symbol, and superstition—everything but a projectile. The collection invites reflection on the boundaries between the sacred and the profane, the human and the unknown.
Rick Owens' Spring-Summer 2027 Collection at Palais de Tokyo Explores Themes of Light, Transformation, and Occult Symbolism
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