The Tom Ford spring-summer 2027 collection, designed by Haider Ackermann, explores themes of seduction and the relationship between underwear and outerwear. The collection includes a bra named Desire, which is a central piece. The undergarments are featured prominently, with designs such as naked breasts under mesh, a bra decorated with a large black leather bow, and a small bullet bra styled like a corset. The bra is available in electric blue, ivory, or black, and features structured double-volume cups made of satin, strapless, with visible frames. The silhouette evokes both the glamorous lingerie of the 1950s and the photographs of Helmut Newton, blending sensuality with power. On model Alex Consani, the bra appears in scarlet red, with straps that encircle the back. The color red extends to the dress, lips, and nails, evoking the image of a Hollywood bombshell, reminiscent of the red dress from the film Matrix or the floating lips of Man Ray. The show celebrates eroticism, with the bra blurring the boundaries between dressed and undressed, outside and inside. Traditionally, clothing is removed to reveal the underwear. In this collection, the two moments merge, with the underwear appearing immediately and paradoxically losing its status as undergarment: exposed, it becomes a structure of the bust. The costume takes the opposite path, with the jacket slipping, framing the chest, and cutting the skin rather than revealing it. It moves to the intimate side. In The Pleasure of the Text, Roland Barthes wonders if "the most erotic part of a body is not where the clothing gapes?" For him, it is precisely "the intermittence" that is erotic: the skin that appears in a "staging of an appearance-disappearance." For him, everything plays out less in what is removed than in the way what remains organizes the gaze. The bra ends up living its own life, almost like a ready-made. Detached from their primary function, its two cups could just as well become lips, eyelids, petals, or blinkers. An undergarment that has ceased to be one.