Chicken has become the most consumed meat globally since 2016, and in France, it overtook pork in 2025. The growing popularity is reflected in the rise of specialized outlets selling fried chicken, as well as its appeal as a source of protein that is easy to prepare, affordable, and often associated with health. However, this success is not only due to its taste or nutritional value, but also to a dramatic transformation in the way chickens are bred and raised.
The modern chicken has been bred to grow at an unprecedented rate. According to Axelle Playoust-Braure, commercial chickens today gain weight four times faster than those from the 1950s. Today’s breeds can reach a slaughter weight of about three kilograms in just 35 to 42 days. This rapid growth began in the United States after World War II, with the 1946 "Chicken of Tomorrow" fair, organized by the U.S. Department of Agriculture and a major supermarket chain. The event aimed to breed chickens specifically for meat production, shifting from mixed breeds used for both eggs and meat. Genetic selection favored birds that efficiently convert feed into muscle, especially in the breast, which is highly valued in the market. The Ross 308 strain, widely used in France and Europe, is a descendant of these breeds. Its pectoral muscles make up about 25% of its body weight, compared to just 10% in the 1950s.
This rapid growth, however, comes with significant health issues for the chickens. Axelle Playoust-Braure describes problems like "spaghetti meat," where muscle fibers detach abnormally, and "hard" breast, marked by injuries and scar tissue. These conditions can affect the texture and nutritional quality of the meat, with fast-growing breeds containing up to four times more fat than traditional breeds and less protein. The consequences extend beyond the plate: lameness, cardiovascular issues, and high mortality rates are common in industrial farming. In France, with about 800 million chickens raised annually, a 4% mortality rate before slaughter translates to nearly 30 million deaths each year—roughly one chicken per second. Additionally, the reliance on protein-rich feed raises concerns about soy imports and deforestation.
The production system also places farmers in a difficult position. In France, large companies like LDC control much of the production chain, from feed to marketing. Farmers operate under contracts that limit their control over conditions and compensation. They are often held responsible for animal welfare despite having little influence over the breeding or management of the chickens. This dynamic has led some farmers to abandon fast-growing breeds in favor of more traditional methods, feeling they are raising "chickens" rather than caring for living animals.
Efforts to reform the industry include the European Chicken Commitment (ECC), launched in 2017 by animal protection groups, which promotes the use of medium-growing breeds and better living conditions for chickens. However, the gap between these standards and scientific recommendations remains wide. Some countries, like the Netherlands and Norway, have already taken steps to reduce the use of fast-growing breeds. In France, LDC has committed to meeting ECC criteria by 2028, but progress depends on market response. Axelle Playoust-Braure highlights a "prisoner's dilemma" in which industry players wait for others to act before making changes. She argues that relying on consumer choices alone may not be enough, and calls for greater involvement from public authorities and large retailers to drive meaningful reform.
Global Rise of Chicken Consumption and Its Industrial Implications
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chickenindustrial-farminganimal-welfareagriculturesustainabilityfood-production
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