At the head of the house, **Jean Paul Gaultier**, designer **Duran Lantink** unveiled a spring-summer 2027 collection that reimagined the brand's classic archetypes through bold, sculptural designs, trompe-l'œil effects, and a playful sense of provocation. The runway featured a first row that included model **Farida Khelfa**, the designer himself, and singer **SZA**. The collection featured pieces such as a sleeveless brown leather vest that padded the chest and shoulders to create almost cubist-shaped forms, and a white body suit composed of vertical white bands that resembled both a sculpture and a trikini. The stage itself was a nod to the brand's history, with a five-tiered hat recalling the dramatic hats once worn by **Farida Khelfa**, which the designer discovered in the brand's archives.
Duran Lantink is known for his fascination with how clothing can transform the human body. He used padding and rounded shapes to explore tailoring "in 3D and viewed from three-quarters," as he explained in his runway notes. The runway featured a gallery of mirrors, encouraging viewers to examine the outfits from multiple angles. This summer, the focus was on underwear, which took center stage in a reimagined approach to the human form. A black high-collared suit featured an oval cut on the chest, revealing a padded leather bra with bullet-shaped cups—more of a decorative piece than a functional one. This design echoed the corsets **Jean Paul Gaultier** once created for **Madonna** during her "Blond Ambition Tour."
On a military-themed set with earth tones and micro-shorts, a cut revealed the skin, with an ocher brassiere featuring bullet-shaped cups pointing upward, reminiscent of 1950s pin-up art. The contrast between the sacred and the sensual was further explored with a silhouette in navy denim, paired with a matching brassiere and a nun's headdress. Sacred on top, bare skin underneath—Duran Lantink played with these contrasts to challenge traditional notions of modesty and identity. Elsewhere in the collection, he drew inspiration from Alpine, Austrian, and Dutch folklores, incorporating plaques, pleated skirts with checks, and a blue dress with a matching scarf tied under the chin, all decorated with mountain bells and chimes.
The collection blended regional traditions with subcultures of the night, mixing tartan and floral embroidery with animated silhouettes featuring accordion pleats and billowing ruffles. These hybrid designs reflected the fluidity of identity, with the designer emphasizing that "we all have different needs depending on the moments. No one is ever the same person." The collection offered a wardrobe that encouraged viewers to never look at things from a single angle.
Duran Lantink Unveils Spring-Summer 2027 Collection at Jean Paul Gaultier House
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