In response to remarks made by Mathieu Lefèvre, the French minister, an association representing the social and solidarity economy (ESS) clarified that those involved in this sector are not responsible for the export of textile waste to other parts of the world. The government has acknowledged this, according to the association. During an interview with Ouest France on September 30, Lefèvre outlined plans for an upcoming reform that will take effect on January 1 of the following year. This reform will maintain exceptional support for actors involved in sorting waste at the 2026 level, but with adjustments based on industrial and environmental performance. By 2027, a new framework for the French textile industry will set specific targets related to the collection, sorting, and recycling of used clothing, household linens, and shoes. Lefèvre emphasized that "we will not abandon the actors of the social and solidarity economy," adding that "clearly, we cannot support actors who export our waste to the other side of the planet to sort it." These comments sparked criticism from Emmaüs, a major player in France's efforts to collect and revalue textiles. Emmaüs claims it is struggling with the sheer volume of "overproduction of clothes that are ultra-polluting (responsible for nearly 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions) and insufficiently regulated." This issue, the association says, has existed long before the rise of ultra-transient fashion trends. Emmaüs argues that due to a lack of domestic outlets for used clothing, actors in the social and solidarity economy are forced to export some of the items they collect. The organization defends itself against accusations of exporting waste, stating that it sends abroad only a small portion of the clothes sorted in France, which are suitable for reuse and can create economic activity. Emmaüs has long called on the government to provide the necessary resources for actors involved in textile collection and sorting to perform their roles effectively and develop the industry. This demand has become increasingly urgent in recent months. The ministry tried to address the controversy, stating that Emmaüs was not the target of Lefèvre's comments during his interview with Ouest France. The minister's office clarified that Lefèvre's remarks were directed at the practice of collecting textiles in France and then exporting them for sorting abroad. The ministry praised Emmaüs' model and expressed a desire to "strengthen" this approach, acknowledging the role of such organizations in addressing the challenges of textile waste and promoting sustainable practices.