Emmaüs defends social economy role in textile reuse

Emmaüs, a French organization focused on social and solidarity economy, is defending the role of such structures in collecting and reusing clothing. It argues that the lack of domestic markets and limited resources in France are key reasons for the export of used textiles.

Government preparing textile sector reform

The French government is working on a reform of the textile sector that will take effect in 2027. This reform aims to redefine how used clothing is collected, sorted, and recycled, while also changing how companies and associations in the sector are funded.

Tensions over textile sorting practices

Tensions have risen between Emmaüs and the government, especially after Minister of Ecological Transition Mathieu Lefèvre criticized the practice of sending textiles abroad for sorting. Lefèvre stated that subsidies for sorting professionals would remain in 2027 but would be adjusted based on their performance.

Emmaüs opposes blaming associative actors

Emmaüs strongly rejected Lefèvre’s criticism, arguing that associative actors should not be held responsible for environmental issues linked to textile exports. The organization highlights that social and solidarity economy structures play a significant role in collecting and reusing clothing in France.

Growing volume of used clothing

Emmaüs points to the increasing amount of used clothing on the market as a major challenge. The rise of cheap fashion and rapid collection cycles have led to more textiles that consumers want to discard, overwhelming existing reuse and recycling capacities in France.

Exported textiles are already sorted

The organization emphasizes that most of the clothing it exports has already been sorted in France and is intended for reuse. It criticizes the idea that these items are simply waste sent abroad for processing, arguing that they are second-hand goods with potential for use.

Call for more public support

Emmaüs is asking for increased public support to develop sorting infrastructure and strengthen local reuse chains. It wants to reduce reliance on international exports while maintaining the jobs and social insertion activities that depend on the sector.

Textile recycling reform in 2027

The government is preparing a new regulation for the textile, household linen, and used footwear sector, which will take effect in 2027. This reform will redefine collection and recycling targets and change how funding is allocated to companies and associations in the sector.

Increased financial support for sorting

The sector already receives significant financial support. In 2026, sorting operators received 268 euros per ton in subsidies, more than double the amount from two years prior. The government also plans to invest over 150 million euros over six years to boost textile processing in France.

Government clarifies stance on Emmaüs

In response to Emmaüs' criticisms, the government clarified that the minister’s comments were not directed at Emmaüs itself. The government reaffirmed its support for the model developed by the organization, focusing instead on operators who export unsorted textiles.

Challenges in textile collection and traceability

A 2025 report revealed that only 32 percent of used textiles are collected in France, with a significant portion exported. This raises concerns about the traceability of these exports and the conditions under which they are processed in other countries.

Balancing reuse, recycling, and jobs

Both the government and associative actors face the challenge of developing reuse and recycling solutions within France. They must do so while preserving the jobs and social insertion activities that rely on the used clothing sector.