Origins of Camembert cheese

Camembert, a soft, creamy cheese from a small village near Vimoutiers in Normandy, was not well known outside of Normandy and Paris in 1914. Its production was limited and its reputation was largely local until certain innovations helped it reach wider markets.

Innovation in cheese packaging

In 1890, engineer Eugène Ridel invented a round wooden box that helped preserve Camembert during transport. This packaging, combined with the expansion of railroads and steamboats, allowed the cheese to reach new markets by the late 19th century, increasing its visibility and availability.

Camembert during World War I

During World War I, a shortage of Gruyère cheese led the French army to order Camembert in 1917. By December of that year, the quartermaster ordered 400 boxes of Camembert per day, which totaled 12,000 boxes per month. This demand grew rapidly, with the army receiving a million Camemberts per month by 1918.

Milk demand and production

Each 250 g Camembert required more than 2 liters of milk, meaning a million cheeses needed over 2 million liters of milk per month. This high demand affected milk distribution, with producers prioritizing orders for the army to avoid rationing and ensure continued dairy production.

Camembert in wartime culture

Camembert became associated with the trenches during World War I and was seen as a symbol of patriotism. It even entered trench language, with unexploded shells being called "failed in the Camembert." Pierre Boisard's thesis, Camembert, French Myth, explores how the memory of soldiers helped elevate the cheese's national status.

Myths and historical accuracy

While Camembert is often credited with feeding the armies from the start of the war, significant orders began in 1917, more than three years after the war started. The war also impacted cheese manufacturers, with some losing staff and others struggling with post-war rationing. Despite these challenges, production continued to grow, supported by around 1,400 cheese factories in the Pays d'Auge.

Camembert's national recognition

Camembert's status as a national cheese was solidified between 1914 and 1918. The protected name was officially recognized later, with the AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) in 1983 and the AOP (Appellation d'Origine Protégée) in 1992. While industrial versions often use cardboard boxes, traditional Camembert is still commonly packaged in poplar wood boxes.

Traditional production standards

The label "Camembert de Normandie AOP" indicates specific production standards, including a hand-made mold process that involves five successive passes with a ladle. Each pass is spaced 50 minutes apart, highlighting the careful and traditional methods used in its creation.