The spring theme was clearly present at Elie Saab's recent fashion show, where wildflower mounds decorated the runway and models wore tiny natural buds on their faces, described behind the scenes as "floral piercings." The collection featured luxurious embroidered designs that depicted bouquets and floral arrangements, but also focused on blending the glamour of Old Hollywood with the current trend for lingerie. The first six looks revisited corsets and brassieres, featuring drooping straps and waist flares, creating a "dressed-up undressed look" in the Elie Saab style. The light outfit was highlighted as a key element of the collection.
The designer expressed satisfaction with the reception of his recent collaboration with H&M, launched just a month prior. He explained that the ready-to-wear collection was inspired by the femininity of the 1930s, translating the "boudoir" glamour of actress Jean Harlow into the present era. Chemise dresses were presented in various forms, tailored to the curves and adorned with pearls, inlaid with lace, and paired with leather jackets. Some were asymmetrical and high-cut on the leg, while others included silk dresses in soft pastel shades, elegantly cut on the bias, and an animal print in pink tones evoking the spirit of the 1990s. Paris Hilton, who attended the show, was likely to recognize this aesthetic.
Small leather bows emphasized the "lingerie" inspiration, reminiscent of bras, while the layering of pieces allowed for the creation of outfits suitable for various occasions beyond the bedroom. Whether worn on the red carpet or at weddings, these creations were designed to display seduction. A notable feature of Elie Saab's shows is the unpredictable order of the looks, with a diaphanous dress in a gradient of colors appearing early in the presentation, followed by a satin pink champagne suit and shorts set. A black corset paired with structured pants gave way to a lime green lace creation.
The collection also included more subdued pieces, such as look 31, an elegant trench coat, and look 42, which highlighted a more refined silhouette, demonstrating that sobriety, moving away from the lingerie aesthetic, could also be powerful.
Elie Saab Spring Collection Blends Floral Themes with Lingerie Aesthetics and Hollywood Glamour
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