Carol Exton describes the Jacs Flat Bivvy, a small wooden and tin shelter tucked in a dense forest within a dark valley in New Zealand, as a "stale and shabby old dog kennel" that is "absolutely disgusting." Despite this, it is her favorite among the 1,000 government-managed hiking shelters in the country. These shelters, ranging from simple two-bed cabins to alpine structures above glaciers, are part of a tradition that inspires adventure and reflects New Zealand’s hiking culture.
In a country known for its towering mountains and rugged coasts, hiking is more than a pastime—it is a way of life. Nearly 15,000 kilometers of public trails are lined with shelters, offering ideal conditions for exploration. Some shelters, built over 100 years ago, stand in ancient tropical forests and along golden beaches, marked by names and messages carved into their walls, serving as silent witnesses to history.
Many of these shelters are free or have symbolic prices, encouraging a devotion that leads people like Exton to visit all shelters in the country. The tradition began in the late 1880s when sheep farmers and gold miners built shelters in remote areas using local materials. Others were constructed on desolate coasts to serve as refuge for shipwreck survivors. In the mid-20th century, more shelters were built after ecological damage caused by invasive animals, such as deer and chamois, introduced by European settlers.
Some shelters have unusual origins. A five-bed shelter in a marine cave along Fiordland's rugged south coast was built by a man named Owen West after he jumped off a fishing boat in the 1980s. According to legend, he swam through treacherous waves to reach the shore and built his home from debris. Others have housed fugitives, including Ellis Hut, named after a suspected murderer who hid there in 1904, and Asbestos Cottage, once the home of a woman who fled an abusive husband and lived there with her lover for thirty years.
When the Department of Conservation (DOC) was created in 1987, it inherited the entire shelter network, which had already been scattered across New Zealand’s mountains. These shelters, with their unique stories and architectural features, contribute to the history and charm that make hiking in New Zealand so appealing. For many, the experience is not just about the journey but also the connections made and the memories created in these remote places.
New Zealand's Hiking Shelters: A Legacy of Adventure and History
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