During the second part of Paris Fashion Week, which ran from September 28 to October 6, designers responded to the challenge of extreme heat by emphasizing lightness, airy fabrics, and designs that allow for movement. Rather than creating minimal wardrobes, the focus shifted toward evening wear, with long dresses, satin, jewelry, and sculptural silhouettes becoming key features. Brands like Hermès, Issey Miyake, and Sacai showcased these elements prominently. At Loewe, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez started with a muted palette of beige and khaki, gradually introducing vibrant colors and transforming practical items—like a basketball jersey—into fashion-forward pieces such as a neo-flapper dress. The brand highlighted its artisanal roots, combining American and Spanish influences throughout the collection.
At Celine, Michael Rider explored the idea of creating style subtly, using accessories to alter silhouettes and evoke different eras. A phrase from the documentary Paris Is Burning was referenced, highlighting the idea of asserting oneself without bending to external expectations. At Sacai, Chitose Abe continued blending utilitarian elements with grand evening wear, creating garments that transitioned between states. One example was a khaki satin jacket covered in golden sequins or an evening dress with a fur hem. The collection emphasized "the moment of becoming," where clothing is in flux between function and desire.
At Hermès, Nadège Vanhée addressed the heat by designing modifiable and ultra-light garments, using fine meshes and light veils in colors like solar yellow and sky blue. The brand’s innovation was evident in its materials, including extremely thin leather straps. At Issey Miyake, Satoshi Kondo explored the Japanese concept of "ma," creating voluminous silhouettes with fine threads that allowed light and the body to be visible through the garments. The collection also featured sculptural bodices that transitioned from day to evening wear.
Yohji Yamamoto’s collection featured garments that seemed to have escaped their own construction, with transparencies, fringes, and almost transparent knits revealing the garment's structure. The collection was dominated by black, though in varying shades and textures. Duran Lantink continued to engage with the Jean-Paul Gaultier heritage, creating sculptural, architectural silhouettes with pointed corsets and exaggerated volumes. The collection emphasized the importance of viewing garments from multiple angles, rather than just the front.
At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada revisited elements considered ugly or banal in fashion, such as dull pleated skirts and worn Wrangler jeans. These items were reinterpreted with crystals, embroidery, and other embellishments, transforming them into desirable pieces. The collection explored how beauty can emerge from everyday clothing, turning the ordinary into the extraordinary.
Paris Fashion Week Autumn 2027: Climate Constraints and Glamour in Contrast
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