At Paris Fashion Week, Anthony Vaccarello unveiled his final collection for Saint Laurent on the Trocadéro esplanade, a location inspired by the ballroom of the InterContinental Hotel, where Yves Saint Laurent once held his haute couture shows. The event took place under the illuminated Eiffel Tower, with golden chandeliers suspended in the sky, creating a dramatic display of light and sparkle. This was Vaccarello's last show as creative director, and he symbolically handed over the keys of the house at the end, marking a significant moment for the brand.
The collection was described as an almost monochromatic ode to gold, with a nostalgic tone that hinted at its finality. The garments, ranging from midi skirts to transparent lace dresses, were draped in gold in various forms—patinated, iridescent, reflective, or absorbed by leather. The designs created an irresistible flow of golden metal, with elements like sahara jackets and cinched trench coats standing out. Models were adorned from head to toe with XXL golden jewelry, a signature element of Saint Laurent.
Yves Saint Laurent, the founder of the brand, had a deep affinity for gold, inspired by his memories of sunlit places like Oran and Marrakech, as well as objects collected with his partner Pierre Bergé and accessories designed by Loulou de la Falaise. This legacy was reflected in Vaccarello's spring-summer 2027 collection, where he aimed for a "pervasive, hypnotic, almost obsessive use of gold," as noted in the show's intention.
Celebrities such as Charlotte Gainsbourg, Hailey Bieber, Rosé from Blackpink, Virginie Efira, Post Malone, Rami Malek, and Charlotte Cardin attended the event, with many facing the Eiffel Tower as part of the spectacle. Adèle Exarchopoulos, recently welcomed into the Video Club, was also present in fashion mode. The event was noted for its glamour, with Hailey Bieber even blushing at one point.
Anthony Vaccarello, who took over as creative director in 2016 after Hedi Slimane, has developed a distinctive style characterized by sensuality, transparency, powerful shoulders, tuxedos, and black. Under his leadership, Saint Laurent surpassed three billion euros in sales in 2022 before experiencing a slowdown in the luxury sector. Though unconfirmed, reports suggest that Vaccarello may be leaving after a decade at the helm. In his intention note, he wrote, "What is leaving sometimes leaves more light than what remains," leaving the future of the brand open to speculation.
Anthony Vaccarello's Final Saint Laurent Collection Showcased at Paris Fashion Week
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