New research from RMIT University highlights a common dilemma among shoppers: despite awareness of the environmental harm caused by fast fashion, many continue to buy from ultra-fast fashion retailers like Shein and Temu. The study, published in the Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, reveals that 4.7 million Australians purchased from Temu and 2.6 million from Shein between 2024 and June 2025, according to a Roy Morgan survey. Researchers identified two key psychological strategies that help explain this behavior—“strategic spontaneity” and “cognitive buffering.” Strategic spontaneity refers to how shoppers plan their purchases in advance, using tools like wish lists, shopping carts, and tracking discounts, yet still perceive the final purchase as spontaneous. One participant explained, “I add things to my cart and wait for payday or a discount notification.” Social media played a major role, with platforms like TikTok influencing quick purchasing decisions. A participant shared, “I’ll be scrolling through TikTok and see someone styling a Shein haul. Ten minutes later, I’ve got the same three items in my cart.” These behaviors create a cycle where the choices made online influence future recommendations and promotions, keeping users engaged with the platforms. Cognitive buffering is another psychological mechanism where shoppers use personal rules or spending limits to justify their purchases, even when they know the environmental impact. Study co-author Associate Professor Saniyat Islam noted that participants were aware of the negative effects of ultra-fast fashion, but this knowledge didn’t always lead to behavior change. Instead, they often set boundaries to feel more comfortable with their decisions. One participant said, “I know it's bad for the planet, but when I'm on a budget and need an outfit for Saturday, I just block that out.” The research was based on interviews with 20 Australian millennials and aimed to explore their purchasing decisions in depth, rather than assess how widespread these behaviors are. The researchers suggested that sustainability messages might be more effective if they align with shoppers’ immediate concerns, such as affordability and value for money. For instance, highlighting the cost per wear of a garment could help consumers compare the long-term value of durable clothing with cheaper, less-lasting items.