Angélina Mensah reports that Pope Léon XIV, arriving in France this Friday, is emphasizing traditional dress codes associated with the papacy, which stand in contrast to the minimalist style favored by Pope François. The clothing worn by popes carries significant symbolic meaning, following rules that have been in place for centuries rather than reflecting personal taste. Raniero Mancinelli, an ecclesiastical tailor with six decades of experience, explains that while there are strict guidelines for religious attire, personalization can occur through choices like fabric thickness, length, and cut. Léon XIV is described as calm, refined, and elegant, making him relatively easy to dress according to these traditions. Pope Benedict XVI, who served before Léon XIV, was known for a maximalist approach to papal attire, with his red shoes becoming a distinctive feature of his wardrobe. Alberto Ambrosio, a theologian and religious historian, notes that Benedict XVI embraced the historical aspects of the papal role more than other recent popes, favoring traditional symbols and garments. In contrast, Pope François, who became pope in 2013, opted for a more practical and Spartan style. He rejected the traditional red mozzetta, a short cloak worn over the papal vestments, and replaced his red shoes with black ones. Mancinelli recalls an anecdote in which François humorously referred to him as a thief after learning the cost of one of his garments. François aimed to simplify the visual image of the papacy, avoiding the appearance of a courtly entourage. Léon XIV’s return of certain traditional garments, such as the red mozzetta and embroidered stole, has drawn attention. Camille Dalmas, a Vatican journalist, cautions against interpreting this as a return to the rigid, hierarchical style of the Ancien Régime, emphasizing that Léon XIV is simply reclaiming items that were part of the previous papal decor. Alberto Ambrosio describes Léon XIV's style as more formal and protocol-driven, noting that he does not revolutionize papal attire but reintroduces elements that were left behind by his predecessor. Léon XIV has gained recognition for his style, appearing on lists such as Vogue's 55 best-dressed personalities of 2025 and Vanity Fair's "Best Dressed" list in August 2025, noted for blending traditional attire with modern touches like Nike sneakers and a baseball cap. Mancinelli highlights the challenge of maintaining the white papal garments, which are particularly prone to staining. Camille Dalmas observes that sartorial changes among popes tend to be enduring, with each pope making slight modifications to the same uniform over time.