Festival highlights experimental fashion

The 41st edition of the Hyères International Fashion, Photography and Accessories Festival, under new director Hugo Lucchino, emphasized experimental approaches to clothing, reimagined everyday objects, and craftsmanship as a central creative force. The festival aimed to give younger generations a platform to shape their own creative worlds, a theme that resonated with the current French political climate where youth voices are often marginalized.

Yui Chen wins top honor

Yui Chen, a graduate of Parsons Paris, won the Grand Prix du jury mode with her collection Food Cover. Her designs included pink and pale blue nightgowns shaped like food bells, reinterpreting the ordinary food protector as a creative element. Chen explained that she started building her own world at a young age, often escaping into books and films due to her parents’ busy schedules.

Influence of past designers and fictional narratives

Chen’s work drew inspiration from the volumetric techniques of Issey Miyake but centered on a fictional narrative sparked by the food protector. The jury praised her designs for their ability to inspire surprise and open new imaginative spaces rather than simply responding to daily life.

Other awards highlight inventive approaches

The le19M Art Crafts Prize was awarded to Dieter Vlasich Obermann for Tiliches, which drew on objects made by his grandmother in Mexico and incorporated regional artisan techniques. Xiao Xu won the Supima Prize with Uncanny, a masculine collection inspired by 1970s fetishist archives. Rachel Luurssen’s Pandora’s Box: The Pursuit of Perfection reimagined the coquette figure with deforming protrusions.

Inclusive fashion gains recognition

Brais Albor Rodriguez won both a special jury mention and the public prize for Por Mis Santos Cojones, a collection that featured tailored clothing for men of large size, often overlooked in fashion. His designs used pink shirts with rounded forms to evoke humor and sensuality, celebrating the bodies of men without conforming to traditional norms.

New leadership and collaborative vision

Valérie Duport, the new president of the board of directors of the Villa Noailles, called the edition "The festival of first times." Hugo Lucchino, in his first year as director, emphasized the importance of listening to youth, who will shape the future of fashion. He introduced a collaborative approach, distributing artistic leadership among multiple experts to support artists more effectively.

Festival challenges industry norms

Lucchino noted a trend toward conservatism in the luxury sector, particularly in leadership roles where men still dominate despite the significant contributions of women in design and education. To counter this, three women presided over the juries of the three competitions. Hyères, positioned outside the pressures of the fashion industry, aimed to highlight alternative paths and visions in fashion.

Festival coincides with youth activism

The award ceremony took place on October 17, around the time French youth mobilized to express their demands. While the connection between fashion and political activism might seem tenuous, the festival provided a space for creative exploration. At a time when young people seek to be heard, maintaining such creative spaces across the country was seen as essential.