Glenn Martens unveiled a commercial yet concept-driven collection for Maison Margiela, focusing on the brand's core identity through a more straightforward approach. The collection drew heavily on the house's origins in the late 1980s, a period defined by the concept of "anti," which challenged traditional notions of fashion through contradictions in material and form. Martens emphasized the brand’s history while updating its signature pieces with subtle modifications. The lineup included trench coats, grey t-shirts, and jersey dresses—archetypal Margiela designs—reimagined with a fresh perspective. His goal was to balance strong conceptual ideas with wearable, consistent designs that would appeal to a broader audience. One standout element of the collection was the reinterpretation of 1960s brocade fabrics into column skirts paired with traditional cotton ribbons. A classic Margiela suit featured an accordion-like effect on the front, while trench coats and draped jersey dresses incorporated "hard" reinforcements, styled to resemble a balcony. The collection also revisited the brand’s signature discreet chic, seen in a white coat with a rigid front and a pleated shirt worn over a high-waist ski pants suit—both emphasizing clean lines and precise tailoring. Martens acknowledged the challenge of appealing to a wider clientele than the original founder, Martin Margiela, had envisioned. This required a more accessible approach while still pushing creative boundaries. The collection also revived techniques used during John Galliano’s time at Maison Margiela, such as exploring the inner linings of garments. Martens introduced his own twist, such as laminating a red lace dress with vinyl and inserting it into a pink satin coat. He also included evening gowns, one of which appeared to enclose a family silverware collection in a pendant, while another resembled a baroque monument through sculptural draping and a flowing cape. Martens expressed that he is not drawn to minimalism, preferring instead a more opulent aesthetic. He often spends time in churches, which influences his appreciation for grandeur and detail. This philosophy is evident in the collection's layered textures and intricate embellishments, reflecting a balance between the brand’s historical roots and a contemporary, expansive vision.